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Air sealing walls, is it the right thing to do?

Cory — Sat, 05 Feb 2011 05:21:47 +0000

It has long been known that without making your home air tight, there is no way for your insulation to perform at it true r value. For example if your walls are built with 2 X 6 studs and insulated with R-21 insulation batts, without the house being airtight, the insulation performs at a reduced R value, something around a R-17. This is caused by gaps between the studs and the insulation which allow air to leak by. The problem in the past with making a home air tight was that the process would also trap moisture in the walls, which would lead to dry rot. Back in the 80′s and early 90′s air tightness was tried by installing 6 mil. plastic on the studs and drywalling over it. With plywood or OSB on the exterior of the wall, this left no place for the water to escape. I remember walking into houses before the drywall was installed and watching the water run down the sheets of plastic. This method of air sealing was quickly dropped and no real alternative was offered. Some minor air sealing of the bottom wall plate to the floor with caulk and foaming around doors and windows is about as far as we’ve gotten with the codes.

Just this year Washington state has adopted a stricter insulation code. It is basically the old Energy Star standards. One part of the code is the requirement that all new home have a blower door test prior to final inspection. Blower door test measures the amount of air leaks a home has. New homes are required to have a blower door score of 7.5 or lower. What this means is that if the air pressure difference between the outdoors and the inside of your house is 50 pascals (50 pound per square inch) then the air in your house will completely exchange itself seven and one half times in an hour. This is still a drafty house but its a start.

By making homes airtight we obviously can cut down the cost of heating these homes. Done correctly we also can build the walls in a manor that will allow moisture to escape. This is the best way to build. In future articles I will talk more about the methods behind this type of construction

Choosing a Window

Cory — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 08:04:41 +0000

With so many options, ratings and technologies out there, picking a window can be very confusing. Add to that, you will have your own criteria for look, comfort, energy savings and of course price. However, there are many resources out there that can make this quite easy for you. We’ll list them here:
• Energy efficient windows of any type are going to be more expensive than regular windows. This is something you will need to be prepared for. However, this one-time expense really pays off, and even your remodelling contractor will agree. Energy efficient windows can lead to money savings of 7-24% (acc. To the EPA) and in some climates, upto 40% annually. It is proven that in 2-3 years, energy efficient windows pay off for themselves.
• The kind of windows you will need depends largely on the climate in your region. Your climate impacts your heating and cooling requirements, your house design and your energy bills. In order that your windows provide you with an optimal solution, they need to keep comfortable as high as possible while keeping cost as low. Thankfully, you don’t have to do the math. This neat window selection tool on the efficient window collaborative website gives you how much you can save on different window types depending on where you live. Try it out here: http://www.efficientwindows.org/selection.cfm.
• As obvious, go for windows with the Energy Star rating or the NFRC (National Fenestration Rating Council) logo. Starting 2010, EPA has come up with improved energy star ratings for windows, which can get you tax credit of over $1,500. Make sure you check for a red label marked ‘Qualified until March 31, 2010’ which means the window was made according to the old rating system. The NFRC ratings will give you the values for the five criteria mentioned in our first post in this series and are also very reliable.

Heating with Geothermal Heat Pumps

Cory — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 08:14:45 +0000

When trying to conserve energy and your wallet, one of the important factors many people overlook is weather. There is a certain ‘optimal’ HVAC system for every kind of weather, and by designing with that in mind helps to makes sure that your budget remains optimal too. Not every house needs air conditioning or furnace heaters. For instance, if you usually have moderate weather throughout the year, like we have in the Pacific Northwest, you could actually replace conventional heaters and A/Cs with heat pumps. And we generally advice our clients to go in for geothermal heat pumps. (GHP)
A heat pump works by moving heat from a warm area to a cool area. It operates on electricity and generally moves heat from the warm air outside to your cold interiors or warm air indoors to cool exteriors. Heat pumps that exchange heat in this manner are called air-source heat pumps. Overall pumps have high efficiency, in fact the highest, since they use very little energy and don’t really create heat, only move it. A geothermal pump works in a similar fashion, only, it exchanges heat with the earth, instead of air. Geothermal heat pumps move the earth’s heat through ducts into a cool house, and vice versa. Because the lower layer of the earth remains more or less at the same temperature, and is warm, GHP work in almost every kind of weather and are favored largely in extreme temperatures.
Geo Thermal Heat pumps are generally more expensive than conventional heating systems. However, the success of an installation depends on the weather, soil quality and certain other factors. Yet, over the long term, the operating costs of heat pump, especially geothermal heat pumps cost very little to operate and provide up to 300% efficiency.

The advantages of a mini split system

Cory — Mon, 21 Dec 2009 08:00:20 +0000

1. It’s easier to install and the units are smaller than conventional duct systems. Mini splits come in different capacities depending on the area you want to use it for. However, they all require nothing more than drilling a hole a few inches in diameter through your wall. This considerably brings down you labor costs and time taken for installation.
2. It has more aesthetic appeal. The indoor fixture are usually built with very sleek design and finishing, (depending on the cost) and are come in various mounting options. For instance you will find indoor fixtures that can be installed on the ceiling, corners or walls.
3. Space friendly. The indoor and outdoor parts can have as many as 50ft between them. Thus, you could install the outer condenser somewhere inconspicuous, like the back of the house, when it won’t be an eye-sore.
4. Duct HVAC systems usually cause a certain amount of heat loss through the ducts, particularly if they haven’t been insulated well (That’s another thing – there is no insulation required with mini splits) With mini splits there’s no such issue – there’s minimal loss of heat or energy through the conduit wires.
5. The cost is comparable to a standard heat pump system. Unlike heat pumps, Mini splits only lose about 40% of their efficiency when the temp drops to zero degrees. However by over sizing the unit by 40 %,( this adds a little to the upfront cost) you will have 100% efficiency at zero degrees. Given the last cold spell we had in December, this could be money well spent.

Led’s are much more cost effective than traditional lighting

Cory — Sat, 05 Dec 2009 08:00:32 +0000

There are also quite a few other things you should keep in mind when buying an installing LED lighting. Having the services of an experienced electrician at your disposal is very important, as is the knowledge of an interior designer who’s worked with LED lighting. Bear in mind the following points:
1. White LED lighting tends to emit a specific kind of white light, which is different from other kinds of white light. This causes certain colors to be seen differently. Thus, you might find that your interiors don’t look the way they were supposed upon installing LED lighting. It is thus important to get a ‘test’ done, or seek professional opinion to see if your interiors will go with white LED lighting. (However, newer LEDs seem to have conquered this drawback)
2. Many people will opt for LEDs specifically because of their aesthetic appeal. However knowing where to use which LED lighting is another important factor determining the aesthetics of the entire setup. An array of LED lightings could be used to illuminate an entire room, while miniature LEDs are great for lighting up stairways, corridors and external paths to the house. Many will also use miniature LEDs for lighting up kitchen closets from the inside. Using the wrong LEDs in the wrong place could lead to an interior disaster.
3. LEDs are the most expensive option – only in the beginning. Their initial high price is off-set by their efficiency (and thus the lower bills) and their lifetime. However, using them correctly is important to ensure this happens. Another aspect we suggest to all our customers who look at green building – When it comes to making eco-friendly decisions, we need to look at life time costs, rather than one-time costs. In this regard, LED seems to win the race.

It’s important that you install LED’s correctly

Cory — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 08:13:21 +0000

There’s quite a fraction of people reading this series on LED lighting who will nod their heads in disagreement. You’ve probably heard from your friend’s that they are very-expensive, very-chic, or that LED installations go bonkers after a few months. The problem is not with LED. LED is one of the best lighting options for residences, when used correctly. An inexperienced electrician and incorrect buying decisions can do a lot of harm to the lighting of the house, to you and your pocket. Here’s what to bear in mind:
1. Buy the right type of LED for your requirements. There are low wattage LEDs, which will work on 1mA (very little) of electricity and there are also new High-Power, high wattage LED which will work on more than 1A (100+ mA) and produce over 1000 lumens. The low wattage ones are used singularly to create different effects, usually for decorative purposes. The high wattage ones are used in place of a light bulb, or used in an array to provide enough light for an entire room.
2. Both types of LED lighting have different requirements. Low wattage LEDs burn out very quickly if not used with the right kind of voltage. They require much less than what is available by default in homes. High wattage ones, on the other hand can work with what we have in homes but need adequate heat sinks that will absorb the extra heat they will produce. If heat sinks are damaged, the lighting will burn out in seconds.
3. LEDs are quite affected by ambient room temperature. Installing them into walls which are not properly ventilated or in rooms that tend to get warm affects their life expectancy, causing them to fade out faster.

Green Tour Comes To Olympia

Cory — Fri, 27 Nov 2009 14:03:26 +0000

The Eco Builders Guild \ South Sound Chapter has announced it will host the South Sound Green Tour on April 17th and 18th, 2010
The theme of the event will be Innovation – Education – Inspiration

It will be a community event to celebrate green innovations through education in sustainable building and inspired living.
This year’s tour will showcase the greenest homes and buildings in our area that incorporate significant use of solar or other renewable energies, new and reclaimed materials, low energy consumption and water conservation technologies, and sustainable design techniques.
Educational sessions will be held at various locations and feature real life topics on how to build and live greener. See our website for more details – www.SouthSoundGreenTour.com ( The site should be up and running by January 1, 2010

South Sound Green Tour is looking for participants and sponsors. If you are interested in either contact me at info@laupenhomes.com. After January we you will be able to contact us directly at SouthSoundGreenTour.com

Using Old Growth Fir Beams

Cory — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 15:08:14 +0000

We had been looking for some beams to use on the living room and dining room ceilings and finally found some old growth beams in Seattle. The beams were originally installed in the Packard building, which was built in 1910, to house a Packard Auto dealership. From what we have learned, the building had at least two businesses occupy it during it’s 98 year life., the Packard car dealership and the Foley sign company. The building was torn down in 2008 to make way for new multi-use retail and residential building. A demolition company salvaged the lumber from the building and we were able to purchase a few of them.

As you might imagine, the beams needed a little work. We took them to Quality Solutions, a carpentry shop owned by Mike Anderson here in Olympia. Mike has the right equipment for cutting and planning large lumber like this. We started by cutting the beams down to the size we wanted, which was 8″ X 8” We then ran them through a planner to get all four sides smooth. From there we took them back to the house to finishes prepping them.

Using a hand power planner with a special curved blade, we proceeded to cut gouges into three sides of the beams. After that was completed, we sanded the beams with 60 grit and then again with 120 grit sandpaper. Then we coated them with a dark stain to contrast with the pine T&G boards we had already installed on the ceilings. After cutting the beams to fit between the walls and wedged them into place we crawled into the attic and secure them. We did this by laying 4X4’s across the top of the trusses bottom cords and then screwed ten inch long lags into the beams.

The end result is beautiful. It also fills good to know the beams have been given a new life ready to go for another 100 years.

Is Passive House construction worth it?

Cory — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 08:22:10 +0000

Quite frankly, it is not to much effort. Building technology has developed to a great extent since the passivhaus standard came into existence, and it is quite a bit easier to build a passive house now than it was 10 years ago. Most of the building material that you require are easily available. Passive houses are as comfortable to live in as any other homes and in fact are healthier and safer because of the building design.

Passive houses are more expensive to build than conventional homes because of the materials required between five and ten percent depending on size. However, over the long run, they have proven to be much cheaper. When you look at how much a conventional home costs in terms of heating, cooling, ventilating, electricity, and air conditioning – a passive house turns out to be a cheaper bargain.

Passive homes are not that uncommon either. Although it is difficult to find a completely passive house in the US – they’re common in the UK and across Europe. Closer to home, we have green homes that make use of some of the principles of passivhaus and add their own two bits to create an energy efficient green home. In Washington DC, we have architect and green builder Travis Price’s four story green home, just about 10 minutes from the White House. His house was featured on the Discovery channel’s World’s Greenest Homes – which, by the way, is a great show to see how much and how easily people can build green homes for themselves.

Passivhaus – The Origin

Cory — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 08:57:34 +0000

Passivhaus – The Origin

It might surprise you to know that Passivhaus is not a latest trend in green building. IT’s been around for quite some time, since 1988, to be precise. However, green building, sustainability and the environmental awareness is a relatively new concept, which is why many are hearing about Passive Houses only lately.

The technique and principles actually emerged in Sweden in 1988 and the first ‘passive house’ was built in Germany 2 years later and 6 years after that, the Passivahus-Institut was founded in Germany. After that, over 15,000 houses have been built, largely in Europe and particularly in Scandinavia using the passivhaus technique. Closer home, the first passive house was constructed in Illinois in 2003. In the US, passivhaus is looked at as a relatively new concept, but one that architects and builders will be quick to embrace, given its potential and possibilities.

The first principles of passivhaus required homes to have a space heating requirement which was 90% less than other houses. To this, other engineers, builders, and architects added their own innovations which made achieving this standard easier and economical. Eventually, building products like construction materials, window and door frames, glass came to be designed specifically for passive houses. Of special mention is a software program called the Passivhaus Planning Package developed and sold by the Passivhaus-Institut that helps architects design and create passive houses. The European Union in 2008 called for a binding requirement that from 2011, all houses built requiring heating and cooling should be built by the passivhaus standard.